Mérida

History

When you're talking about exploring Yucatán, all roads lead to lovely Mérida, its capital. In addition to being the pre-eminent colonial city, it is also the ideal departure point for excursions to the principal archeological sites, cities, colonial towns and ports.

The state capital is better known as the “White City”, where until 500 years ago it was the ancient Mayan city of T’ho or Ichcaansihó, which means five hills. It was founded in the year 1542 by Francisco de Montejo, “El Mozo”, after his struggle to overcome a number of Mayan rulers. Its grandiose temples and places of worship reminded the Spanish soldiers of those well-carved stone and lime mortar buildings with ancient Roman moldings erected in Mérida, Spain, which prompted de Montejo to baptize it with the same name as the imperial and secular Spanish town.

After its founding, Mérida began its life as a colonial city, with streets and plazas symmetrically laid out by line and set-square in the style of the old castillian and andalucian towns, a design which remains even today.

The land was divided among the nobles but designed to reserve a great central space for the Plaza Principal or Main Plaza, a name which stuck until 1812 when it became the Plaza of Independence, although today it is more commonly called the Plaza Grande (Big Plaza). To the west were two neighborhoods for indigenous people: Santiago and Santa Catarina; to the east San Cristobal, for plateau indians; and to the north, the neighborhood of Santa Lucia, appropriate for blacks and mulattos. In the center, around the plaza, the main civil and religious buildings were erected: the Royal Houses to accommodate officials and captains sent from Spain, the Town Council destined to government authorities and the High Church, which would later be substituted by the cathedral.

The visitor strolling around the center of the capital shouldn’t miss the group of ancient buildings which make up the historic center. Across from the east side of the Plaza Grande, where leafy laurels cast welcome shade, rises the Cathedral of San Ildefonso, the oldest on the entire American continent. Built during the second half of the 16th century, it is remarkable for the austere nature of its monumental architecture and singular charm, and the graceful rise of its airy twin towers. It took over 40 years to build, using stone from local quarries and destroyed Mayan temples. It was the first cathedral to be erected on American soil and inside is an image of Christ on the Cross which, at 7 meters tall, is thought to be the largest indoor representation in the world.

Across from the east side of the Plaza Grande is the Casa de Montejo, Montejo’s House. A jewel of platoresque art which “El Mozo” (The Younger) built for himself and his wife between 1543 and 1549. The building is conserved intact and is flanked by two Corinthian columns where the frame has sculptured tablets in high relief combined with renaissance motifs. The upper part has characteristics in the Isabelline Gothic style; nevertheless, a great indigenous influence is obvious throughout the work.

As the city expanded, it lost much of its original geometric order which the founder had imposed. Towards the north, an indigenous neighborhood began to take shape, Santa Ana, which at the end of the 17th century had grown to 80 blocks and covered almost two square kilometers. Similarly, seven stonework arches were built to mark, on one hand, the city limits, and on the other, the separation between this and the indian quarters. Urban growth has since swallowed up all but three: San Juan, the Dragons and the Bridge.

At the end of the 19th century, population growth was so strong that new colonies and housing estates began to appear, along with theaters, urban transport services, hospitals, schools, clubs and social centers. But perhaps the most significant change of the time was the appearance of countless haciendas, the result of a boom in the Yucatán’s developing henequen industry. The consequential economic growth powered the restoration and construction of innumerable public buildings, temples and private homes which, even today, adorn the most beautiful avenues of the city. An example is the elegant José Peón Contreras Theater, with its white marble staircase and stately auditorium of traditional European design.

The Governor’s Palace was built across from the Plaza of Independence and inaugurated on 15 September 1892. The style is Neoclassic and now houses murals whose historic depictions are considered among the most important in the state: the history of the Maya is represented on the walls of the “History Room”. Recently built to the north of the palace is the “Olimpo” Cultural Center.

Another of the city’s important attractions is the traditional Paseo de Montejo, one of its most elegant avenues, where the magnificent architecture of the Cantón Palace stands out. The Italian Renaissance style building has been adapted to house the Museum of Anthropology and History. Also on the avenue is the imposing Monument to the Patria, yet another icon of Mérida. Regional and national history is depicted in the sculptured stone.

Of the parks, fountains and gardens which are sprinkled generously around the city, one of the largest is Centenary Park. It opened its doors in 1910 as part of the Mexican Independence Centenary celebrations, and has an artificial lake, open-air theater, zoo and children’s activities among other attractions. Another popular park is the Park of the Americas, with a monumental Mayan-style fountain, exhibition center and library, open-air theater and ample gardens. Almost every one of the city’s colonies and residential areas has plazas and parks around the churches or fountains for the distraction and recreation of children and adults alike.

As well as parks, the “White City” also boasts a bull ring. The “Plaza de Toros” is located on Reforma Avenue where a constantly changing billboard announces a variety of events in addition to the “corridas” for bullfighting fans. Museums dedicated to anthropology, archeology, antiques and popular art abound leaving no question that Mérida is the cultural capital of Yucatán.

Strolling Mérida’s streets is to imbibe the romantic, provincial atmosphere which evidences a past rich in history and legend. In spite of modern touches, Mérida has been able to conserve its colonial charm: light and color radiate from every corner. At night Mérida dresses up and holds out an invitation to discover its charms: taking a trip around the historic center in a horse-drawn carriage; sitting in a side-walk café to contemplate the stars; enjoying a show where mestizas and troubadours reward observers with a night of folklore and romance, music and poetry.

You will be surprised by the wonders and possibilities that the legendary white city can offer, permeated by the cordial hospitality so characteristic of its people. For all this and much more…Come to Mérida. It’s all for you.